The medieval castle’s impressing silhouette has been towering over Begur ever since the 11th century, and is regarded as the small town’s symbol.
Situated close to the Cap de Begur - between the Mountains of Gavarres and the sea the small town and its crystal clear bays are among the Costa Brava’s most beautiful places. Bergur has changed over the last couple of years, though. In the old alleys, between the carefully and lovingly restored old buildings, there are now modern boutiques, stylish restaurants and inviting cafes.
The town’s ever-changing architecture is a real eye-catcher: there are majestic colony style houses, dating back to the 19th century and built by people coming home from America with a fortune, as well as towers built in the 16th and 17th century for only one purpose: defense against pirates. In the steep, winding alleys old fishing cottages lean against the mountain as if for support, standing wall by wall.
Once, this was a place for fishers, mariners and divers of the coral reefs. Now, it is mainly populated by tourists having chosen this town as their second home. The gothic church in the center of Begur is dedicated to the holy Petrus. In the shadow of its walls, the town’s inhabitants have gathered for some gossiping.
We are looking for a place beneath the trees and eventually find a café beside the church, were we sit down and enjoy the lifelines going on around us.
Afterwards, we take a walk up the steep mountain road leading tot he Castell de Begur. The struggle up the mountain is definitely worth the effort. As a reward, there is a picturesque view on the sea and the mountains:
Sa Riera, Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna, Platja Fonda, Fornells and Aiguablava;
this is how the most beautiful bays on the coastline of Begur are called. From August 31st to September 2nd, the entire town rejoices and plunges into Caribbean flair. It is the time of a festival called Fira d’Indians. From the 16th to the 19th century, Cuba was a Spanish colony, and there were quite a few Catalans, who went to find their luck at the other side of the ocean.
They returned, having gained a fortune, and built the splendid houses. In Begur, this bond to the Caribbean island is celebrated with a festival on the streets. The market, offering vegetables and other colonial goods, invites the guests to stay and buy some of them.
Cuban music and dances, colourful costumes and tasty Caipirinhas put every?one in good spirits, until the morning comes. Fun is guaranteed on this festival you don’t want to miss it!
Sometimes the little paradises can be found directly in front of our house door.
From Platja de Pals a panorama way leads along the steep coast to the coves of Begur. We already had heard of that, but we couldn’t imagine how beautiful the landscape really is. At the end of September the weather god brought us some very nice days and thanks to the rainfalls nature was living a second spring. So we remembered this route near Pals, dreaming of some solitary baths in silent inlets.
Platja de Pals welcomed us with a rank green in front of an azure sea, where we can see the Medes Islands. At the end of the enormous beach we discover some bizarre rock formations. Countless catamarans are parked in the sand, their drivers waiting for wind and preparing the next race.
This weekend the Spanish championships take place here. Then we climb into the rocks and follow the broad path towards Begur. Anglers try their luck. Children jump from a cliff into the sea and swim to the beach of l’Illa Roja.
The Platja de l’Illa Roja is paradisiacal and as in times of Adam and Eve people swim in the nude. In the next inlet we hear loud music. A group of kids is dancing into the end of summer.
After the next raising Cala sa Riera lies in front of us. A perfect dream: white sand, clearly blue water and fisher boats at the beach, surrounded by white houses and green pine woods.
We sit down in a café directly at the beach promenade, still completely fascinated by the romantic panorama. The waiter serves us pan con tomate and fresh orange juice. Before and after the season Cala sa Riera is without any doubt one of the most beautiful inlets on the Costa Brava.
The path still continues some metres, but finally it ends in the middle of nowhere. Yellow rocks contrast with the turquoise sea and white sails. Unhurriedly we return to Platja de Pals and laze around at the beach. Bay-hopping at its best!